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Category Archives: France
Mistral lunch in Gigondas
The village of Gigondas is located at the foot of the impressive Dentelles de Montmirail. We were warm in the car when we drove to the center of town and saw that the terrace of l’Oustalet was open. Beautiful May … Continue reading
Posted in 2008, 2009, FOOD, France, Red, Restaurants, Rhone, TASTE TRAVEL, the road
Tagged 2009, CDR, Cotes du Rhone, Dentelles de Montmirail, France, Gigondas, l’Oustalet, Les Deux Albion, Longue Toque, May, Rhone, rosé, Rouge, St Cosme
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Veronica’s spring risotto
One of Veronica’s long time dreams was to buy food and cook it in her own kitchen in Paris. Her dream came true this spring. Saturday morning found us at the Bio market on the boulevard des Batignolles loaded down … Continue reading
Posted in 2009, FOOD, Recipes, Rhone, White
Tagged 2009, asparagus, Bio market, Blanc, Boulevard des Batignolles, Chateauneuf du Pape, chive flowers, Clos du Mont Olivet, peas, rice, risotto, Sabon, taleggio
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Behind the scenes @ Le Jardin Gourmand
They were just back from Rome, to get away while the work was being done. Work being a total make over of the restaurant Le Jardin Gourmand. « We had to do it to be ready to face the next 10 … Continue reading
Posted in 1996, 2002, Burgundy, FOOD, France, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, What is in my glass?
Tagged 1996, 1er Cru, 2002, Ambonnay Rouge, Auxerre, biscuit, bitterness, Bousserau, Chassagne Montrachet, chizeaux, dayton de cuba, Egly Ouriet, fatty, foie gras, France, garden, Gourmand, Heinz Beck, Italy, Jardin, La Pergola, La Romanée, Le Jardin Gourmand, leaves, liquorish, mustard, olive, Olivier, Olivier Laplaine, Pierre, Pierre Boussereau, Rome, roquette, smoked, speculos, spiciness, spring, tannins, truffle, Verget
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Those Brittany boys….
“White and purple !!” I exclaimed, truly shocked. “Where do these sea urchins from?” “Brittany.” Replied Colette “I’ve never seen anything like these !” “Neither have I.” She admitted, almost as shocked as I was by her own remark. If Colette has … Continue reading
Posted in FOOD, France, Paris, TASTE TRAVEL
Tagged Brittany, brown, Colette, complex, complexity, fishmonger, floral, ginger, Iceland, Japanese, meaty, Montmartre, Paris, Pepone, Poissonerie, purple, red fruits, sea urchin, white
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Colette and the sea urchins
No one picks out sea urchins like Colette. She’s got it down to an art. Picking them up delicately and with the slightest shake of the wrist, she weighs each one in her knowing hand. Oui, là, ils sont bien … Continue reading
Posted in FOOD, France, Paris, TASTE TRAVEL, White, WINE
Tagged buttery, Chardonnay, cold water, Colette, collette, fishmonger, floral, France, gamy, ginger, Iceland, mineral, Montmartre, Norway, oursins, Paris, Poissonerie Pepone, Red, sea urchins, Spain, violet, yellow
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Saturday morning breakfast @ Batignolles Organic Market
On cold blustery days (the kind we’ve had a lot recently) the tarps covering the market stalls look like they’ve been pulled extra-tight together, huddling up close in solidarity. On the nicer, sunnier days, there is a little jazz trio … Continue reading
Tang, Coquilles and St Julien
I’ve mentioned Resturant Tang before as one of my absolute favorite places in Paris. I know a lot of his dishes, but on my last visit, he surprised me with this scallop and spicy soy sauce recipe. Scallops (Coquilles St Jacques, … Continue reading
Posted in 2004, FOOD, France, Paris, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE
Tagged 1er Grand Cru Classé, 2004, 2eme Grand Cru Classé, 2nd wine, balance, bitterness, Bordeaux, Charlie Tang, Chateau de La Tour, Chinese, Clos du Marquis, Coquilles St Jacques, Leoville Las Cases, Medoc, mouth feel, Paris, Pauillac, Red, restaurant, Restaurant Tang, scallops, soy sauce, spice, St Julien, Tang, vintage
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Christian Etienne and unexpected truffles…
The streets of Avignon are dead on this wintry night with the exception of a few Chinese tourists. How did they get here? Where is everyone else? We arrive late at Christian Etienne, but when we open the door, we … Continue reading
Posted in 2007, FOOD, France, Restaurants, Rhone, TASTE TRAVEL
Tagged 2007, Alary, apple, apple pie, Avignon, beets, bitterness, Cairanne, Christian Etienne, citronella, consommé, desert, harmony, ice cream, lobster, Oratoire, Oratoire St Martin, pistachio, Provencal cooking, Provence, Rhone, scallops, South of France, soy, sprouts, sweetness, truffles, vanilla
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Truffles and Chardonnay @ Le Chassagne
The 2004 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées, was a little disappointing because it was reduced (needed air) and never fully expressed its potential, both of terroir and vintage. Chardonnay, even if disappointing on its own, tends to … Continue reading
Posted in 2004, Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE
Tagged 1er Cru, 2004, artichoke, Bernard Morey, bread, Burgundy, butter, Chardonnay, Chassagne Montrachet, cream, egg, Le Chassagne, Les Embrazées, pepper, reduction, salt, Stéphane Léger, truffle
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Haddock and beets @ Le Chassagne
I have a soft spot for chefs who use beets. Surprisingly complex aromatically with an interesting mixture of red fruits and earthiness, beets are an under-rated vegetable. My most recent visit to Le Chassagne, chef Stefane Léger brought out a … Continue reading
Posted in 2001, Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE
Tagged 2001, acidity, beetroot, beets, bitterness, Burgundy, Chassagne Montrachet, chips, Corton Clos du Roi, crunch, Le Chassagne, orange rind, peach, Pinot Noir, Pousse d’Or, smoke, smoked haddock, Stéphane Léger, texture
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Unexpected Beaujolais Nouveau 2009
When he handed me the bread, and I realized that it was warm, I thought, “this is too good to be true”. How can you have a Beaujolais nouveau day without a glass (or three) of Beaujolais? Someone with some … Continue reading
Posted in 2009, Beaujolais, FOOD, WINE
Tagged 2009, Beaujolais Nouveau, Bordeaux, bread, charcuterie, delicious, Duboeuf, Gamay, pork, SNCF
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2009 harvest @ Domaine de La Madone
Posted in 2009, Beaujolais, WINE
Tagged 2009, Beaujolais, Bererd, de-stemmer, Gamay, Harvest, La Madone, sorting table, vineyard, winery
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A revelation: Foie gras with raspberries and red bell pepper jelly
How do you make foie gras go with Beaujolais Villages? Start by giving the chef a glass or two. Just so that he can get the creative juices flowing… The young chef at Auberge de Chantemerle came up with an … Continue reading
Posted in 2006, Beaujolais, FOOD, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, Uncategorized, what am I drinking with this dish?
Tagged Auberge de Clochemerle, Beaujolais, Beaujolais Village, complex, digestable, Domaine de La Madone, electric, foie gras, Gamay, juice, Le Perreon, new wood, pepperiness, Pinot Noir, raspberry, red bell pepper, red fruits, toastiness
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Maria, Oh! Maria @ Regalade in Beaune
There was only one line in the email: “Does anyone know how to spell La REGALADE and frogs legs or what???” With that we knew that we would have to make a trip to see Maria. Not only to keep … Continue reading
Posted in 2007, Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants, TASTE TRAVEL, WINE
Tagged 2007, Beaune, blackboard, Burgundy, butter, Chardonnay, chicken broth, coddled eggs, dark meat, Dover sole, egg, French fries, frites, frogs legs, garlic, La Regalade, morel, mushrooms, potatoes, RN79, terrace, truffle, Vincent Dureuil, white meat
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Psychedelic risotto @ Castel de Tres Girard
It was what we call bonus sunshine. Sun when everyone said it would rain. The kind of day where you feel strange putting on a big coat. But after an hour’s tasting in a cool cellar, you’re really glad you … Continue reading
Posted in Burgundy, FOOD, Restaurants
Tagged aldente, balance, beetroot, beets, bitterness, Burgundy, cachew nuts, cashew, Castel de Tres Girard, harmony, Italy, mange tout pea pods, Morey St Denis, nuts, Parmesan, rice, risotto, Rome, sweetness, veggies
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Tang : Bordeaux with Chinese food
Taro root with white truffle oil This is one of his signature amuse bouches. The sweetness of the taro is a perfect vehicle for the gamy complex (almost intoxicating) truffle. Noodles with shitake mushrooms Very South-East Asian in style. Some … Continue reading
Posted in 1998, 1999, 2002, FOOD, Paris, Restaurants, What is in my glass?
Tagged 1998, 1999, 2002, abalone, black sesame, Bordeaux, broccoli, Canard Pekinois, Charlie Tang, Chateau La Louvière Rouge, Chateau Talbot, crab meat, crispy skin, duck, ginger, Grand Cru Classé, langoustine, langoustines, noodles, Pessac Leognan, Roederer, rosé, scallop, shitake, St Julien, taro root, turbot, white truffle
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Chambertin 1979 Louis Trapet
This old thing was kicking around the cellar for reasons that are long to explain. The Duc thought it might be dead. But it was very much alive. (the vintage was written by hand because the neck label with … Continue reading
Posted in 1979, Burgundy, what am I drinking with this dish?, What is in my glass?
Tagged 1979, birds, Burgundy, Chambertin, color, gaminess, Gevrey Chambertin, Louis Trapet, spice, structure, tannin, truffle
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Verget Chassagne Montrachet Pimont 2004
The best white Burgundies of 2004 come from Cote d’Or. Why? Because Cote d’Or had, on average, lower acids and higher alcohols than Chablis or the Maconnais for climactic reasons. Verget harvested very late in Chablis which is why their … Continue reading
Posted in 2004, Burgundy, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE
Tagged 2004, Burgundy, butter, Chablis, Chassagne, Chassagne Montrachet, Cote d'Or, lemon butter, length, Maconnais, pepperiness, Puligny, truffle, Verget
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What was in the glass to go with these truffles?
1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée We needed something that was complex and rich enough to be able to marry well with the truffles. 1996 Comptes Lafon Meusault Désirée More nutty, more evolved than the Clos de la Barre we … Continue reading
Posted in 1996, Burgundy, what am I drinking with this dish?, WINE
Tagged 1996, butter, Comtes Lafon, Meursault, Meursault Désirée, nutty, toast, truffle
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